Smaller, and more robust versions of the paper monsters, are the brightly coloured animal figurines carved out of wood most often found in Oaxaca, which has some of the richest folk-art in Mexico. The tiny village of Arrazola produces many of these miniature animals, made from the soft wood of the copal tree; you can visit the artisans in their homes and buy from them direct. The figurines range from crickets to unicorns.
The story goes that Linares used to make traditional papier-mache figures and carnival masks, for all the local festivals, including piñatas at Christmas, and life-size Judas dolls at Easter. After falling gravely ill, he encountered weird, grotesque animals in his fevered hallucinations. Upon recovery he decided to paint and construct cardboard versions of the animals in his dreams, little realising how popular these ugly monsters would become. As a result of the renewed creativity following his near-death experience, Linares and his family passed over the thin line separating
The popular tradition of burning giant Judas doll at midnight on Easter eve originated from Spain. (A more dangerous version was to stuff them full of fireworks and blow them up, but this was later banned in Mexico). The dolls are usually red papier-mache figures that look like the devil, and burning them is supposed to strike a blow for good against evil. Often, the dolls are made to resemble politicians who have fallen out of favour or corrupt officials – in the mid 1990s, one of the most popular figures of hate was President Salinas.
Renowned muralist, Rivera Diego bought several huge figures for his art studio and European and US enthusiasts started collecting the Linares family’s creations as artistic treasures.
The Alebrijes procession I saw took place in one of Mexico City’s main boulevards, Paseo Reforma. The giant creations then came to rest overnight on the wide pavements. How apt that they should have appeared the week before the Day of the Dead was to be celebrated, reminding us of the skill with which Mexicans circumvent horror and fear. What was one man’s terrifying vision of death became celebrated sculptures. With these fantastical creations, the stuff of nightmares has been transformed into colourful, folk art for the delight of adults and children alike.
